Bianca Saunders' AW19 collection entitled Unravelling, explores the feminine side of the black male identity, in the expanse of their most intimate setting: their bedroom. Saunders chose this setting in order to emphasize their wholesome state in a place they feel most open and able to self-express themselves through different garments, patterns and styles.
Feeling that the world is oversaturated with representations of hypermasculinity of the black male, Saunders delves into a world of vulnerability, relying on twisted seams, shirring and elasticated techniques, continuing her AW18 narrative that examines the sexuality and gender expectations of London's young men.
In her previous project entitled Personal Politics, Saunders found fascinating the way males expressed their sexuality, always being afraid of discussing it in an incorrect way, the reason why they relied mainly on styling and silent behaviour. The designer sustained this feeling throughout the AW19 presentation, using modern fabrics such as nylon, leather, cotton and jersey, that were manipulated in such way to resemble the comfort and the commodity of one's home.
Intertwining elements of creasing and creating structural outlines with wider shirt sleeves and narrowed silhouettes, Saunders emphasized on a neutral colour palette of black, white and grey. Blurring the gender boundaries, the designer was oscillating between feminine outfits composed out of cuffed white joggers, a matching top with oversized shoulders, and masculine aspects, where the model was shirtless, wearing only a wool overcoat with wide-leg trousers.