It was expected that Jamie Wei Huang, the contemporary luxury designer, to strike the audience by using futuristic elements in her Autumn/Winter 2018 collection. However, she managed to surprise with her collection entitled ‘To All The Hearts That Dream,’ which seemed to be subtracted straight from a Nineties catwalk.
Yet, at a more careful inspection, one can distinguish the modern details: materials and patterns that elevate the pieces from being only garments. Huang, to whom fashion and art are barely distinct fields, found inspiration in the legendary figures of the‘90s from Hong Kong, where the time was driven by courage, deep longing and foolish hearts.
These elements have been transposed in the collection through three-dimensional garments in bright hues of red, green and indigo, contrasted by a careful juxtaposition of fabrics and clean cuts.
One of the most striking outfits was composed of an oversized, green-coloured sweatshirt, a short, light denim skirt and a pair of Velcro-straps summer sandals with burgundy soles. The outfit was accessorised with a metallic green clutch and black calf length socks, elements that encapsulated a feeling of uniqueness, as if the model chose their own outfit, creating a culture of individualism. The sweater incorporated delicate elastic details around the waistline, making the garment body-conscious, as well as a three dimensional font on the garment, that read “AW18.”
The unconventional sandals were part of every outfit alongside a unique collection of jewellery, made in collaboration with Fang, a designer who explores the relationship between natural materials and sensitive techniques, creating new shapes and styles. The earrings and bracelets resembled the design of the Nineties classic, Silly Bandz, the silicone rubber shaped into different animals or letters. However, the jewellery is made out of silver and the intricate shapes add a luxurious touch to the collection.
Jamie Huang did not try to bring back to life the ‘90s styles, but she contrasted classic garments with modern cuts, invocating the era’s effervescent energy and applying it onto fashionable items.
Photograph: Hew Jenkins
This article was created for The Upcoming magazine