Through tones of denim blue, green and vivid neon, Underage presented the psychological idea of the gaze and self-observation. Entitled ‘Lucid Dreams’, the presentation focused on Michel Foucault’s idea of the panopticon, an institutional building created in a way that a prisoner would internalize the gaze of a guard to the point where the prisoner became the one to observe and discipline himself.
Underage looks at this idea through the prism of the psychic and how it limits one’s identity by categorisation imposed on people by themselves. Although the concept behind the SS19 collection is complex, the result is simplified: Underage is creating garments to empower women so they can feel good in their skin and expose their true identity.
Underage uses materials such distressed denim, wool, cotton, and polyester in order to transform these traditional fabrics through unusual cuts, colours, and patterns in the same way they aim for a female transformation who embraces her inner desires and sets herself free. For instance, the classic distressed denim was used in combination with tailored fabrics and elegant embroidery, recreating a new day-wear style. In the context of femininity, the classic florals were not absent but mixed with tartan and embraced in multicoloured hues of green, yellow and purple, in a psychotic, fascinating way.
The models were placed on mirrors that represented the way in which we constantly analyze our selves and transform our identity accordingly. Being inspired from the ‘Club Kid’ 80s-90s era, the designer believes that the state of mind of that period is repeating itself nowadays through the youth’s psyche and Ying Shen (the head designer) is offering the youth a possibility to express themselves through bold garments that are displaying ‘quiet sexual images,’ placed in order to encourage the youth in their transformation process.